Username:

Password:

Fargot Password? / Help

Blog

A selection of the best articles from the Lebanon Traveler magazine and other various relevant posts. Enjoy reading and we are looking forward for your comments.
April 11, 2012 Posted by ron in Blog

10 Things to do in Tripoli

1. Stay overnight

Hotel Koura
This family-run-establishment is one of the best budget hotels in the area. The rooms are comfortable and the lounge serves as a dining area. Breakfast is included in the price and the owner, Pierre Jabour, can organize day trips upon request.
+961 3 371041, +961 6 425451
alkourahotel.com

Chateau des Oliviers (Villa Nadia)
This hotel is set in a mansion on a hill just south of the city. It boats the unique taste of Nadia Dibo, its owner, consisting of 15 rooms, 4 suites, and one royal suite. Those with balconies have extraordinary views overlooking Tripoli, the mountains and the sea.
+961 6 411170, +961 3 151512
chateau-des-oliviers.com

2. The Old Souks and Khans

Khan Al Saboun (Soap Market)
Traditionally made with olive oil, honey and other natural ingredients, the soaps supplied to the hammams in Tripoli make them an essential part of the city’s economy. Make sure to visit Sharkasi Soap Factory above the Souk and Badr Hassoun’s shop to discover the soap production process and sample over 400 kinds of soaps on offer. Do not miss the huge soap carved into the shape of an open volume of the Quran. The Khan Al Saboun was originally a military barrack during the Ottoman period and was eventually transformed into a market for olive and olive oil based products in the 18th century.
+961 6 874483
khanalsaboun.com

Khan Al Khayatine (Tailor’s Market)
The Khan Al Khayatine souk in Tripoli was built in the first half of the 14th century and renovated in 1974. It is the oldest souk of the city and has narrow winding alleys featuring tailor shops where you will find beautiful traditional clothing. Beautiful colors, unique textures and special designs are in display. The costumes for Lebanon’s most renowned dance troupes are made here.

The Pottery Workshop
In Al Mina, Abu George the potter still turns his hand-made pottery on a traditional wheel. You wonder how much longer such skilled artisans will ply their trade as you watch the balanced symmetry of an elongated pot emerge from a rough lump of clay. None of his children are interested in learning the trade and he fears he will be one of the last to handcraft these increasingly rare artifacts.
+961 6 600290, +961 3 517267

Al Azm Cultural Center
This center is a haven for all artists. Established in 1994, it is the first and most active cultural center in Tripoli, where creative people meet to share and discuss their work. The center organizes concerts, seminars and workshops to enhance the cultural life of the city. Make sure to check it out to uncover the local artist scene.
+961 6 444448
azmsaade.net

3. Architecture

The Taynal Mosque
The green-domed mosque, built ca.1336 by Governor Saif el-Din Taynal has a spectacular feature: the towering portal, tallest in the city, built inside the large vaulted vestibule that precedes the main prayer room. A relatively small door, within this huge portal, opens onto a large main prayer hall, also arched and vaulted with an elegantly carved wooden minbar (pulpit) dating from 1336. The Taynal Mosque lies south of the Old City. Built on the site of a ruined Crusader Carmelite church, some of its material was incorporated into the mosque, notably two rows of Egyptian granite Roman columns capped with Corinthian capitals.

Al Madrassa Qartawiyya
Built by a Mamluk governor of the same name in the early 13th century, over the baptistery of an old cathedral, the Madrassa is well known for its fine workmanship evident in its elegant black and white façade topped by a honey-combed patterned half dome above the portal. Its back wall, also black and white, is adorned with beautiful Arabic calligraphy. The Madrassa is also known for having the only oval dome in Tripoli, which tops the prayer room.

Burj Es Sabaa (Lion Tower)
This miniature fortress at the far-eastern end of the Tripoli harbor (called Al Mina) is named after the lions decorations that decorated it once upon a time. It is an exceptional example of Mamluk military architecture with a striking black and white portico and older Roman columns used to reinforce the walls horizontally. If you do get there before 4 pm, ask the guardian of the place to take you to the top of the tower where you can catch a wonderful view of the abandoned Tripoli train station.

4. Shopping

Souk Harraj
This is the only covered souk in Tripoli. Granite columns, thought to be of Roman or Crusader origin, support the high vaulted ceiling of this 14th century edifice. Harraj, is the Arabic word for negotiate and at this souk you are encouraged to negotiate the price for items on offer such as mattresses, pillows and other bedding materials.

Saeh Library
One of the best-kept secrets of Tripoli, the Saeh library is a treasure island for book lovers. Dive into the shelves and dusty boxes to find infinite treasures of early edition books by Balzac and Hemingway, as well as many out of print magazines.
saehlib.com

5. Religion

The Great Mosque
The construction of the Great Mosque began in 1294, on the site of the destroyed St Mary of the Tower church. It was completed in 1315, and probable traces of the 700-year structure can still be seen in its distinctive square minaret thought to have been the church’s bell tower. To enter, women are expected to wear one of the gowns provided and cover their heads. To the left the late 13th C Shamsiyah Madrasa, among the oldest in Tripoli, has above it the home of its founder, Judge Shamseddin al Iskandari. A typical wooden manzala (closed balcony) decorates its façade. The minaret of the Great Mosque is in fact the square Lombard bell tower of St. Mary’s church that once stood on the site.

Al Muallaq Mosque
This is a small simple yet unique mosque due to its unusual position over a vaulted passage. Located upstairs on the second floor of the building, it was built in the 16th century. It has a plain interior and leads down to a delightful courtyard garden where you can visit the tomb of its creator Mahmood Lutfi al Zaim.

Church Street
There are few churches remaining in Tripoli, as most were destroyed in 1279 when the Mamluk Sultan conquered the Crusader city. A few remain in the Church Street, hence the name. As you walk around, you will find Saint Nicolas that was originally a soap factory. The oldest Maronite church in Tripoli, St Micheal which was built in 1889, is located a little further. However, the oldest church of Tripoli is Saydet al Hara in Tabbaneh, which dates back to the 13th century. It was recently restored after the damages it sustained during the Lebanese civil war.

The Cathedral of St George (Al Mina)
Built in 1735 during the Ottoman period, this large and impressive building is patterned on a Crusader style basilical church. Below the church is a very old grotto, whose exact purpose and its origins are not known.

6. Nature

Palm Island Reserve
The Palm Island Reserve consists of three islands and covers a rough area of 5km2 of land and sea. Declared a protected site by UNESCO in 1992 and dedicated as a nature reserve in 1993, the island is populated with endangered species of rabbits, monk seals and turtles. It is also a stop for over 300 species of migratory birds. The largest island, Nakheel, features around 2,500 palm trees with paths laid out for visitors. After your stroll, you can take a swim or enjoy a picnic. The islands are open to the public from July to September. Negotiate your boat trip at the Mina, pack some food and float away to the preserved nature islands.
+961 6 204525, +961 6 600 673
epc@cyberia.net.lb

Al Mina
The history of the Al Mina port goes back way before the medieval times; however, few traces of this history remains. The port is today a promenade for natives and tourists alike, to rest after a long day of walking around the old city and enjoy local dishes and desserts.

7. Modern structures

Tripoli International Fair
Tripoli is full of history but also has a special place for modern architecture. Commissioned in 1963, and designed by world famous architect Oscar Niemeyer, the Tripoli International Fair, also known as the Rachid Karame Fair, was abandoned mid-construction at the outbreak of the civil war. Today the fair ground hosts many big events.
safadi-foundation.org

8. Hammam

Hammam Al Abd
Built in the17th C, Hammam el Abed is today’s only operational bathhouse in Tripoli. Open from 8am to 10 pm, it is unfortunately only open for men, unless you reserve ahead of time for a group of women. The hammam was built in the 17th century and has the typical pierced domes of the Mamluk an Ottoman era public bath. The interior with its cushions and central fountain is a vision by itself. Traditionally bathhouses were open to both sexes (different hours) and here prospective mothers-in-laws could view and select brides-to-be.
+961 3 724556

Hammam Al Jadid
By far the largest hammam of the city, Hammam Al Jadid was built in 1740 and has not been operational since the early 1970s. However, it is the city’s best-preserved establishment. A gift to the city by Asaad Pasha al Azem, governor of Damascus, no expense was spared in its construction. A huge glass pierced dome dominates the main chamber and brings a dim light to a pool and fountain below.
+961 3 684930

9. History

Ottoman Clock Tower
Walking through Al Tell square to view the renovated Ottoman Clock Tower, gifted to the people of Tripoli in 1901/2 by Sultan Abdel Hamid to commemorate the 25th anniversary of his Sultanate, we stop to admire some of the beautifully restored Ottoman buildings that surround the square.

Citadel St Gilles
The citadel St Gilles dominated the city of Tripoli and is one of its greatest landmarks. In 1102 AD, Raymond de St Gilles occupied the hill and decided to built a fortress on the beautiful location. The original castle was burnt down in 1289. Emir Essendir Kurgi rebuilt it with some additions in the 19th century. Today, the foundations are the only original remains. Explore alone or hire a guide, it is well worth a visit.

Madrassa Al Tawahiyat
This law school with its attached mausoleum dates back to 1471. Located on the main street of the gold souk, it is built of sandstone in alternating black and white patterns and has an unusual, finely decorated portal that towers above the building’s ornate façade.

Butrusiya Mosque and Madrassa
Built by the Kurdish prince, Sharafeddin Issa ben Omar al Butrasi, the construction is distinguished by the mosaic in its half dome, its square minaret, its black and white stonework and the intricately decorated and inlaid mihrab.

10. Food

Dabboussi
For a unique vegetarian moghrabiyeh sandwich
+961 6 447668
Ich Ich
For ice cream made the traditional way in many flavors
(near Al Mina)
Dannoun
For a delicious foul fatteh and hommos
+961 6 433987
Silver Shore
For an unforgettable samke harra
+961 6 601384

Tripoli tourism information office
+961 6 433590
tripoli-lebanon.com

October 14, 2011 Posted by ron in Blog

The first Forum on Sustainable Tourism Development in Lebanon- Exhibition Space

October 5, 2011: Over 25 exhibitors from around Lebanon gathered in the first Forum on Sustainable Tourism Development in Lebanon in UNESCO Palace, Beirut to establish fruitful contacts with national tourism providers,be exposed to the requirements of national tourism providers and the constraints they face to better address them, position their services and region within the value chain, get inspired for new products and new services and channel this inspiration towards internationally recognized tourism trends.

Participants flooded in from rural areas; businesses,tourism development projects, communities, craftsmen, NGOs as well as media participated in the 2011 exhibition of the Sustainable Tourism Development Forum in Lebanon!
They introduced their products, services, businesses and projects to entrepreneurs and business men from the tourism field as well as market driver travel and tourism agencies.
Check out the photos in the gallery below:

August 24, 2011 Posted by ron in Blog

Ramadan Drinks this Summer

This year Ramadan fell in the month of August this year, and the days of fasting were hot and extremely long. By the time the call to prayer sounds, those fasting are more than ready to quench their thirst with a cold drink..

During Ramadan, refreshing drinks are a must and no Iftar table is complete without them. This year Ramadan falls in the month of August, so the days of fasting will be hot and extremely long. By
the time the call to prayer sounds those fasting will be more than ready to quench their thirst with a cold drink. Eating nutritiously is especially important and healthy drinks should be served up during Iftar and souhour to help to withstand the heat of the day and the long hours of fasting ahead.
The drink most associated with Ramadan is Amaredine. A good source of vitamins, this drink is made of dried apricots boiled in water with some sugar and a little rose water. Dried apricots are
excellent sources of potassium, vitamin A, as well as fiber, protein and vitamin C. Jellab is also at the top of the list of drinks to break the fast with, as do rose syrup and lemonade.

Everybody looks forward to these coolers and no one makes them better than Lebanon’s rural women who are known for their syrups, such as mulberry, apricot, rose and lemon, all of which are the base ingredients to making delicious beverages.

“We produce natural juice syrups, without preservatives, made by rural women all over Lebanon,” says May Traboulsi chairperson of Rural Delights Cooperative established under the patronage of YMCA Association. “If the women grow apricots in their backyard then we encourage them to make apricot syrup.”

Rural Delights Cooperative specializes in traditional Lebanese food products, including syrups, free from additives or preservatives; the name itself literally translates to ‘rural delights’ in Arabic. The
cooperative was established initially as a byproduct of a donor funded development program aimed at providing rural women in Lebanon with income opportunities. The program was established
in women owned food-processing centers, linked to Rural Delights Cooperative for marketing their productions. The syrups are made under the quality control of the HACCP and the GMP (Good
Manufacturing Practices).

May Traboulsi is not the only person supporting pure local products made by rural women. There are several other associations across the country, including Aghsan in Deirmimas, South Lebanon, established by a group of friends whose aim is to support the work of rural women. They formed Bayt el Mooneh, and the association is led by Asma Al Hourani who ensures that
the women produce quality homemade products including syrups which are sold through catering and food fairs as well as directly to the public.
So when looking to Ramadan drinks buy local and support Lebanon’s rural communities to uphold age-old syrup-making traditions … and to quench your thirst after a long day of fasting.
aghsan.org.lb

Amaredine
• 300g dried apricots or 3 sheets of paste
• 2 1/2 cups hot water
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 3 teaspoons orange blossom water
Cut apricots into small pieces, put in a bowl and
add the hot water. Leave for 2 hours or more,
stirring from time to time until dissolved. Strain
the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, then
add sugar and orange blossom water. Leave to
cool in the refrigerator and serve.

Jellab
• 1 cup jellab syrup
• 5 cups water
• 5 teaspoons pine nuts
• 5 teaspoons almonds
• 5 teaspoons raisins
Pour the jellab syrup into a pitcher,
add water and stir. Serve with
crushed ice and add 1 teaspoon
pine nuts, 1 teaspoon almonds and 1
teaspoon raisins to each glass.

Rose syrup drink
• 2 cups sugar
• 2 cups rose water
• 1/2 cup lemon juice
Boil 1 cup of water with sugar until completely
dissolved. Add lemon juice and let the mixture
boil for a while. Add the rose water and keep
boiling for a few minutes. Remove from heat
and store in glass bottles. For serving, dissolve
3 tablespoons of syrup in water. Serve with ice
cubes and mint leaves.

August 3, 2011 Posted by ron in Blog

EID EL SAYDEH

A national religious holiday for Christians and Muslims alike, Eid Al Saydeh is also known as the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. A period of fasting and mourning, when no weddings or communions take place, starts on August 1 and ends at sundown on the eve of August 14 leading to the feast day on the 15th. After which for two weeks every year, celebrations take place across Lebanon.

According to the belief of Roman Catholic, Maronite and other Western Christians the Assumption of Mary was the bodily and spiritual taking up of the Virgin Mary into Heaven at the end of her life. Catholic Church teaches a dogma which Pope Pius XII dogmatically and infallibly defined, that the Virgin Mary “having completed the course of her earthly life, was assumed body and soul into heavenly glory.” “The Greek Orthodox and Eastern churches know this belief as the Dormition of the Theotokos whereby the Virgin Mary rose in spirit and her body is till today, buried in Jerusalem,” says Father Constantine Nassar of the Greek Orthodox Saint Nicholas Church in Achrafieh, Beirut. In the churches, which observe it, the Assumption is a major feast day, commonly celebrated on August 15.

Mary’s Assumption is said to have been a divine gift to her as the ‘Mother of God’ whereby she rose to heaven. Western Christians also believe that she was free from impurity and was Annunciated whilst in her mother’s womb.

“On the other hand, the Greek Orthodox and Eastern Christians see that the Virgin Mary was born and raised an ordinary human being and was Annunciated after archangel Gabriel appeared to her and said that she would become the mother of Jesus Christ. To the Greek Orthodox and Eastern Christians the Virgin Mary is a ‘means’ to Salvation while to Western Christians she is a ‘partner’ in Salvation,” says Father Constantine.
Mary is the most sacred female figure among Christians and Muslims alike. The religious sites of Maghdoushe and Harissa are visited by both Christians and Muslims, including a high concentration of Iranian tourists. Her feast is one for all sects in Lebanon.

Whatever the belief, this period is marked by a number of activities that promote tourism, such as outdoor exhibitions for local produce, promoting charities and raising proceeds for the poor or simply getting in touch with nature through activities like camping, hiking and site seeing. Meanwhile the hospitality sector is at a constant lookout for better and more refreshing ways to help guests enjoy that mid-summer break. Be it municipalities, slow food farmers, artisans, scouts or family committees, everyone gets involved.
Urbanites opt to visit cooler altitudes or beachfront villages where kermises are thrown by contributing families to raise funds for charity. They sell homemade olive oil and soaps, jams, pottery, handicrafts, knit work and delicatessens. They also promote slow-food small-scale farmers, and children’s trivia games. Churches all over the country also call upon private charities in order to help the needy.

“ We are expecting a lot of visitors, who can experience exterior local heritage, specialties, delicatessens and produce at each village’s bazaar, whilst being able to come back to the tranquil interior or hotel,” explains George Karam, Director of Sales and Marketing at the Intercontinental Mzaar Mountain Resort & Spa. Tourists and local families from all religions can enjoy a mid-summer break in the cool altitude of the area – famous in the winter for skiing – along with precious time away from the bustle and heat of the city.

The traditional dish served all over Lebanon to break the fast on the Eve of the 14th is ‘Hreeseh’. A broth made from boiled wheat and chunks of lamb/beef bones and cutlets, this dish is a healthy nutritious meal symbolic of the basic essentials of life; wheat, water, and some meat to flavor a broth. Today, every cook adds his/her own perfecting ingredient to make this dish not just a must-have during the feast, but a delicious one as well!

Anfeh is a town lying on the coast of Al-Koura district in North Lebanon located 65 Km from Beirut. The Crusaders built Our Lady of Al-Natour Monastery, on the Cape of Al-Natour, over Byzantine ruins, at Raas Al-Natour, an area that lies opposite to the Anfeh Peninsula. People from the entire region visit this historic monastery during this feast. The Our Lady of the Wind Church is another site built during the Byzantine era and located on the Northern coast of the peninsula. The town’s importance stems back to this church, which is considered by many historians, to be the oldest church in the Middle East. Decorated with frescos that are so faded that they can only be viewed when the wall is wetted with clean water. The church is located in the midst of now endangered salt marches.

Beirut’s urbanites take comfort in the cozy Church on Makhoul Street in Ras-Beirut, where special masses are held for the occasion, followed by a festive reception of Hreeseh, Lebanese delicacies and neighborhood fireworks.

Bhamdoun is also famous for its festivities around the Saydeh Church located in the main village square better known as “Sahat Eddayaa”. Because Bhamdoun is close to Beirut it is the summer second home to many Beirutis, each household triples in number on this day and the streets are filled with people from all over. A night mass is held while Hreseeh is prepared right under the terrace of the church. Another unique feature of Bhamdoun in the famous local ‘tamrieyh’, a crunchy square pastry made only in very special occasions!

Deir el Qamar, situated in the Chouf region, is a much frequented destination by tourists looking for a dry cool atmosphere within a convenient half-hour drive from Beirut. The population of the Chouf, cooperate on creating an experience that exposes people to the region’s staple traditional crafts, foods, tapestries, flavors, and homemade delicatessens like jams, syrups, orange blossom water, olive oil, and most importantly, the dish that is served all over Lebanon in parallel with this holiday: Hreeseh.

Faraya and Faqra On this occasion six days of fun that include concerts, dance performances, handicraft exhibitions, book animation sessions and a variety of activities take place here. “The entire area of Kfardebyan, Faqra, and Faraya will be celebrating, especially seeing as it will coincide with the Holy Month of Ramadan this year so we are creating dual packages for the entire month,” explains George Karam, director of sales and marketing at the InterContinental Mzaar Mountain Resort & Spa.

Hamatoura, a village near Kousba in the Batroun region, houses an ancient Church built into the rocks of the mountains, called The Church of Dormition or “Kneesit Rukkad Al Saydeh” where people from all over visit for the special mass that is held there during this time.

Jezzine is a town located 73 km south of Beirut at an altitude of 950m, where grand religious and cultural festivities take place during this holiday. The town is famous for its shrine of Our Lady of the Waterfall. Ancient sarcophagi and Crusader remains and sites are scattered about the town, along with remains like The Saint Antoine Convent belonging to the Antoine order
(1774). Kafr Jarra, a village that lies south of Jezzine also houses the Church of Saint John the Baptist. Built in the 16th century, it is one of the oldest churches in the area and the Lebanese Directorate of Antiquities is currently restoring it.

Maghdouché According to Christian belief, when Jesus came to Sidon, the Virgin Mary who accompanied him, waited for him at the top of the hill where Maghdouché is located today, 8 km southeast of Sidon. She spent the night in a cave that came to be known as Mantara, or the “Awaiting.” Emperor Constantine the Great responded to St. Hélène’s request and transformed the cave into a sanctuary for the Virgin. He erected a tower in honor of the Virgin. The tower collapsed during the earthquake of 550. Later, King Louis IX erected a watching tower in the same location. A shepherd discovered the Mantara cave accidentally in 1726. An icon of the Virgin was also discovered, and it was of Byzantine style, dating back to the 7th or to the 8th century. Since then, the cave has been transformed into a place of pilgrimage for all the Lebanese confessions. In 1860, the Greek Catholic Church became the owner, and transformed the cave into a sanctuary in 1880.

Zahle and the Bekaa A Marian shrine is located in the city of Zahlé in the Bekaa Valley. A ten-meter-high bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, sculpted by Italian artist Pierroti, rests on a 54 meter high tower, crowning a hill known by the name of Tel Chiha. An elevator takes pilgrims and tourists up to a platform overlooking the brick-adorned town, and offering panoramic views of the valley. At its base, the tower houses a small chapel that seats nearly 100 people.

July 13, 2011 Posted by ron in Blog

Beyond Beirut - July Newsletter- Issue 2

Click below to downoad the Beyond Beirut July Newsletter
Beyond Beirut – July Newsletter- Issue 2